Best of Boston

Unsurprisingly, this 20-seat setup tucked inside a Somerville warehouse excels at the format for which it’s named. Chef Peter Ungár continually catches us off-guard with ingenious touches prepared inches away—think: pads of mackerel brined in fermented daikon broth and crowned with turnip kimchi and herbs from the restaurant’s living wall. Also unexpected: the recent launch of TC Market (a line of house-made condiments), not to mention news that an à la carte Counter will land at a local food hall this year.